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Touring  South East Asia and beyond - Spectacular and Informative

12/30/2024

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South East Asia is a region between the Indian and Pacific oceans.  It is comprised of eleven (11) countries - sovereign nations, starting as far north as Myanmar- not shown on the map, and trailing south and east to Indonesia; a combination of mainland as well as island nations.  Our Viking cruise started in Thailand - a mainland nation and proceeded south to Indonesia - a total of four (4) of ​separate nations and several provinces.  

We arrived in Bangkok on November 1st and proceeded to Port Laem Cha Bank to get on board the Viking liner.  A 90 minute ride, first through the city and then into the rural countryside, with a driver that, essentially spoke no English.  An interesting trip and fortunately uneventful - which was good. Our daily  excursions began in Thailand and for the next thirteen (13) days we were exposed to a collage of sights, sounds, smells - many of them pleasing and pleasant, other less so.  But that's later.  As of now we were underway.


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Our first observation, even before we set sail, was the number of container vessels in port.  The docks were loaded with hundreds of containers - y'know, the trailer section of a tractor/trailer combo.  A little research revealed that the region - known as the Malacca Straits, is the pathway for more than 94,000 container vessels, annually.  West to East trade, moving thru two (2) oceans to the Americas,  Europe and all areas in between; and accounting for more than 30% of the total worldwide, ocean-moved trade volume.  That's a lot!

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The entire region has had a rich, albeit challenging relationship with Britain for several hundred years.  This was visible throughout but especially so in Malaysia.  Here we could observe edifices that celebrated the British presence - the "good ole boys clubs", cricket fields, etc.  The East Indian Co. played a significant role in establishing and maintaining British dominance of the region, thru the lucrative trading platforms that thrived during the period.

That said, the indigenous people also attached themselves - willingly or not, to the British.  English is the official language; laws and customs - public and private, all reflect the British influence - a replica of Big Ben, for example.  In times of conflict, that influence was also present.  Standing in the center of the Capital - Kuala Lumpur, is a monument - The Tugu Negara; much like the Iwo Jima Memorial, commemorating Malaysia's struggle and eventual victory against Japanese aggression during WW2.

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In Malaysia's museum of Natural History there's an Exhibit on display which presented early settlement life in the surrounding region.
The Archaeological records date back 100,000 years - as displayed on a chart.  This, according to Yuval Harari author of Sapiens, is about the time when homo sapiens began their huge migration out of Africa.  The timing is as striking as it is compelling and forces us to consider the realities of human evolutionary development and disbursement versus the ever present and celebrated Religious narrative.

How evolution, over time, modified the structural features and behavior of Homo Sapiens, as they migrated out of Africa, is still a vast unknown.  Speculation is huge; factual information and findings, NOT SO MUCH. But extremely interesting, nonetheless.

The level of homogeneity within the region is extensive.  Albeit that each country is viewed as separate and relatively unique, the population, as such, is grounded in a common genetic footprint. Starting from as far north as Manchuria and traversing south to Indonesia - which is just above Australia, the blended similarity is clearly visible with minor modification in skin tone and facial features.  And not surprisingly, many of the early cave drawings and carvings on display in the museum reflected some resemblance of images found in Africa.  The array of photographs shown below is an attempt to dramatize this point.  Individual pictures span the region from Bangkok - our starting point, to Bali, Indonesia or final destination.

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The Region is proud of its Religious diversity and boasts of the peaceful co-existence among the four (4) major religions -Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Buddhists.  It was not uncommon to see four (4) places of worship - each of a different faith, all on the same block.  The lack of overt conflict is, however, due in large part to government oversight; the latter has prescribed rules and regulations that are strictly enforced. Women are NOT allowed in Temples with uncovered legs  - see Susan under-wrap.  Free spirited individualism is simply NOT tolerated.  The region also celebrates an array of fringe religious activity.  However, these are found mostly in the outlying regions, less so in the cities.  Accordingly, we did not encounter much of this activity

The predominant religion is Muslim/Islam, accounting for approximately 40% of the population.  In Bali, unlike the other cities, Hindus account for 80% of the population.  More on the Hindus in Bali.

The structures are magnificent and lavished with care; and appeared to be engulfed in constant activity, ranging from tourists on tour as well as various religious and other festive events. 

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Singapore is an experience onto itself.  Earlier history, notwithstanding, the British got Singapore started in 1819 as a Trading post for the region.  In 1959 they formed an alliance with the Malaysian Federation; two years later they broke away from that Alliance to become a sovereign nation - achieved in 1965.  From that point forward, Singapore has been on the upswing. 

A nation of 6 million people, residing on a foot print of less than 300 sq miles.  As would be expected, land is at a premium - reserved for the super rich.  However, 80% of the population own their own homes;  this, courtesy of  the government.  The majority of Singaporeans live in government sponsored condominiums.  The city is dotted with dozens of these 15 - 20 story structures, each housing hundreds of families and thousands of people.  The government facilitates the financing at more than affordable interest rates.  In addition, there are several dozen smaller islands that border the coastline of the main island.  Many of these islands are inhabited; many are not.  And life on these islands is extremely rural and nothing like living on the main island.

Singapore is proud to attest to the religious tolerance on display in their country.  it is not uncommon to see three (3) places of worship, each of a different faith, all on the same block - much like it was in Malaysia.  The predominant religion is Buddhist - 31%, followed by Christianity - 19%, and Muslim - 15%.  There are other active religions - mostly historic to the indigenous people living on the coastal islands.

The relatively harmonious lifestyle, existing among a fairly diverse group of people is due in part to effective governance.  Laws are created, implemented and  rigorously enforced.  For example - firearms are all but prohibited. If a crime - say a robbery is committed and a firearm is present; doesn't matter that it wasn't used.  If the person is found guilty he/she will face an extended time - if not life in prison.  If the firearm is used, even if no one is killed or even injured, if convicted, the person will be sentenced to death - no discussion or plea bargaining. Singapore is one of the safest countries in the world.

The socioeconomic status of this island nation is stellar and worthy of a quick read, at a minimum.  If interested, please click on the blue highlight to access detail information on the financial and economic statistics of the country.

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Poverty is no stranger to So East Asia.  This was on display in just about every city we entered.  That said, the throngs of people move around with a sense of - if not being happy, contentment and acceptance.   All encountered were courteous, polite and smiling.  The market places were packed with locals shopping, selling, and working.  Motor scooters are the preferred mode of transportation.  Thousands of these little two wheel projectiles zipping back and forth; no where was off limits and quite apparently, not overly regulated. 

As can be expected the accident statistics are staggering - click on blue to review fact sheet.  However,  observing the continuous flow of scooter traffic makes it clear that the high mortality toll has been absorbed by the populous and accepted as the norm.  Not uncommon to see a family of 4 or 5 neatly tucked onto a scooter, just zipping along

PictureTambora Eruption - 1815
So East Asia - Indonesia, is home to the world greatest volcanic eruption, EVER. This occurred on Mt Tambora in 1815 and enacted a death toll of an estimated 71,000 people.  In 1883 there was another massive volcanic eruption - the island of Krakatoa exploded, destroying 70% of the island; 36,000+ lives lost.  Thus,  within a period of less than 75 years, volcanic eruptions caused the deaths of more than 100,000 people in So East Asia; that's a lot! - but wait ...

More recently, in 2004 - December 26th, an earthquake in the Indian Ocean generated a massive tsunami which slammed into the coast of northern Sumatra, Indonesia unleashing havoc across the islands and coastal towns of the region.  The area was a very popular location for tourist and many of the latter were caught up in the suffering and loss.  In 2012, Netflix released the movie The Impossible;  a story about one family's experience in the trauma of that day.  The death toll of this tragedy was estimated at 228,000 people, across 15 countries - from India to Indonesia.

Our travels did not take us anywhere close to the ground zero of these events; but it's reasonable to conclude that So East Asia is a hot bed of active seismic activity.  Approximately 6 weeks after returning home, an earthquake rocked Myanmar and a moderate tsunami came ashore outside the city of Bangkok; no damage or loss of life reported. Whew, that was close!

Krakatoa Volcanic Eruption
Krakatoa Volcanic Eruption - 1883
2004 Tsunami Devastation
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We arrived in Bali - the southern tip of Indonesia and our last stop.  We elected to spend an additional 3 days in the city; and that turn out to be  great decision.  Unlike the other cities in Indonesia, Bali is 80% Hindu.  Two notable observations, as follows: a) There were sacrificial alters scattered throughout, for people to place their offerings to the Gods; b) the vast number of temples.  We hired a tour guide and for the next three (3) days roamed the city - in an SUV, not on foot.  Our guide's name was Made Serinata - a devout Hindu and one of the nicest people you would ever want to meet and know.  He was politeness on steroids. 

A normal day for many/most Hindus starts with prayer and an offering to one of the many Gods, asking for guidance and support for the tasks to be completed that day.  In conversation with Mad'e, I asked him what happened if the task was not completed or not even started - And he said.  "... well the first thing that's done is to go to the temple or alter and beg forgiveness from the God, for having failed to accomplish the task..."; and then the process is repeated - supplication and prayer, along with another offering for guidance and support for either another task or the task not previously completed.  Amazing!

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Our first excursion out was to the Monkey Park.  Much like any other but with the added attraction of "wild monkeys" running around.   We were cautioned to be alert because they were continuously curious and would jump and snatch glasses on face, cell phones in hand and, in general, anything shiny.  Mad'e was methodical and meticulous in guiding and explaining.

The monkeys are wild but cared for.  Feeding is a daily event and the government manages the population growth and provides healthcare. 

In addition to enjoying its natural beauty, the Park is also home to a variety of celebrations - festivals and plays, alike.  As the sun slowly sets, people begin arriving at the amphitheaters, in preparation for the performance for that evening.  We were fortunate - compliments of Mad'e, to attend a special presentation of an ancient Hindu folklore.  The performance was presented in Operatic style - pantomiming and singing; and of course within a collage of colorful costumes and props.  The setting was near perfect and the performance thoroughly enjoyable, albeit that the lyrics were totally foreign.

The western shore of Bali presented the Indian Ocean - first ever for us.  At a glance it looked like any other body of water; but a moment of reflection on where we were and how far away was home, suddenly the vastness and grandeur of the visual took on an entirely different meaning.

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Our last day in Bali was spent touring through the rural areas  - so much to see.  Farms, recreational parks, artists and carvers, hard at work.   At noon, Mad'e made arrangements for lunch at this tucked away in the hills, local restaurant. It was closed at that time but were happy to accommodate us. Delightful.

Farming methods were primitive but clearly effective; and dedication to the task, simply amazing. 

After lunch we visited this little shop and observed a team of about 5 guys designing and molding a variety of images. Pictures of this are included in the slid show, presented at the end.

For dinner, we went to the Apurva Kempinski Bali Hotel, at the Koral Restaurant.  The hotel is extensive as it was elegant and the aquarium surrounding the restaurant was amazing, to say the least.  Pictures simply do not capture the true ambience of the setting but we gave it a go. 

We departed Bali the following morning en route to back to New Jersey, via Dubai and Frankfurt. Twenty Four hours of actual flying time.  Whew!  Glad to be back home!

The following is a selection from the dozens of photographs we took.  Clearly I could not build a narrative around every photograph - the blog would become boring and tiresome - probably already is.  However, some of the pictures are interesting and probably worthy of a glance.  Enjoy.
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    About the Author

    I was raised in a system governed by the British. I enjoyed my early years, as a kid growing up in Jamaica, West Indies, but always considered myself to be a thoughtful person, more concerned with understanding the accuracy of an issue – any issue, and less with the categorization of right vs wrong, good vs bad.  I never really understood why I thought along those lines – I just did.  However, as I matured I discovered that the essence of this thought process was the first step in my commitment to achieving a fair and balanced evaluation of events, as they occurred.

    For me, Right and Wrong always seemed to be relative to something else.   Albeit that there may be some events that are unequivocal in their absoluteness, most issues tend to bounce between the two (right or wrong/good or bad) extremes, depending on the perspective/paradigm used to evaluate them.  Consequently, the end result for most of these conclusions is in that murky grey, middle area.

    In creating this Blog, I am committed to focusing on an objective evaluation of whatever issue I bring forward.  I will endeavor to keep to a minimum any personal preferences, paradigm influences and emotions, in my evaluative efforts.

    I welcome comments and criticism from anyone who accesses my site.  I will also make every attempt to provide a timely response to those comments.

    Thank you for reading and I hope you find the articles amusing, at the least, enlightening at best.

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